if it can be fused then it can be split

“...monetary idealisms
between
passed-over arithmetics
and sanguinary mathematics
between the 'structural' entity
of an 'obsessing sole'
and the conduct of living things
in contact with the 'obsessing sole...”
Salvador Dali

I am influenced by the idea of surrealism, instead of interacting in logical ways, each idea can move in a different train of thought. I feel I can express this through tailoring in some sense.
Tailoring qu’est-ce que?... I see mathematics and movement of lines calculated by the ‘obsessing soles’*(obsessing soles, people obsessing over made to measure garments). These lines that are made to satisfy and measure a person perfectly. Tailoring imitates ‘living things’ through the use of dividing, measuring limitations of the body. This ideal of mathematics and calculations I believe is yet to be discovered and uncovered by me.



These images I have found of a house being divided into sections are interesting. I have thought about how I can relate it to tailoring. It mimics a structure however in order to come up with a new design it has been divided and split into pieces. Putting them together like a puzzle in order to fit could be an interesting concept.
This week I started playing with my unpicked blazer and I photographed it hanging being tied and suspended in different ways it being the structure of my design.
Then I wanted to split the jacket in sections and re-puzzle them together creating an interesting image. In the images created I can see garments being remade from different pieces of the original structure. I have chosen to use an alternative method of deconstructing.

relationships

Interpretation of shoulderpads:



I have been unpicking a double breasted men’s jacket and after a lot of close observation I have noticed it is not of high quality. The internals might as well be hidden because as I pulled back the layer of lining it was quite funny. This is interesting as lining is usually used to clean up rough edges however imagine a jacket with no lining and all these mistakes out in the open it would be quite shocking.



POCKETS

The jacket includes only welt pockets. Here I have an example of the great sewing of this unknown tailor. There was a hole on the LHS of the pocket and to avoid it he sews around the problem. Sewing around the problem is fine when I guess you have lining to cover up all inaccuracy. Another strange thing is that for interfacing the tailor uses blue scraps of fabric on the LHS and black on the RHS. This could be an interesting design idea. I am guessing by using two different colours it is easier to differentiate the right to the left.



SLEEVES

The lining is connected to the wool and then the wool is connected together at the side seam. Reminds me of bones in the body connecting to other bones. All the seams are pressed open and the lining is tacked at places e.g., the shoulder of the sleeve. The sleeve has curved shape as patterns are made to accommodate the natural swing of the arm.

big fun.

Heathers - 1988
typical 80's fashion
costume designer Rudy Dillon enhances shoulder pads, tights, hats under this quirky scheme of colour.






Winnona Ryder's blazer has been deconstructed in sections with fabric alternation. This is really awesome and creates a second dimension to the blazer.

'Red jacket with heart', Harris Tweed
Autumn/Winter 1987–88

Westwood had self-taught tailoring skills this particular jacket is interesting as the lapel has been merged into a love heart. There are elements of a traditional jacket however it's coincided with Westwood's quirky touch.