I have been unpicking a double breasted men’s jacket and after a lot of close observation I have noticed it is not of high quality. The internals might as well be hidden because as I pulled back the layer of lining it was quite funny. This is interesting as lining is usually used to clean up rough edges however imagine a jacket with no lining and all these mistakes out in the open it would be quite shocking.
POCKETS
The jacket includes only welt pockets. Here I have an example of the great sewing of this unknown tailor. There was a hole on the LHS of the pocket and to avoid it he sews around the problem. Sewing around the problem is fine when I guess you have lining to cover up all inaccuracy. Another strange thing is that for interfacing the tailor uses blue scraps of fabric on the LHS and black on the RHS. This could be an interesting design idea. I am guessing by using two different colours it is easier to differentiate the right to the left.
SLEEVES
The lining is connected to the wool and then the wool is connected together at the side seam. Reminds me of bones in the body connecting to other bones. All the seams are pressed open and the lining is tacked at places e.g., the shoulder of the sleeve. The sleeve has curved shape as patterns are made to accommodate the natural swing of the arm.
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